Walk with me to my favorite campiello, the Campiello del Remer (the star of yesterday’s blog post). Start along the main walking street outside the San Giovanni Grisostomo Church. (A mouthful, but fun to say.)
From the main street, look for an alleyway with this love poem graffiti “Dez loves Ruez.” You’ll find it faces a tobacco shop next to the Fiaschetteria Toscana restaurant. We’d always exchange Italian greetings with the restaurant’s chefs through the open kitchen windows (hallway down the alley on the left). If you look up while walking down this alley, you’ll see the state flag of California. And no, we did not put it there, but it was fun to see. You’ll arrive in a small opening with a few doors opening onto it.
This may sound a bit complicated, but it’s only confusing the first time — and worth the adventure!
When you get through this sotoportego (covered alley), you’ll arrive in the Campiello del Remer. This is what it looks like when you first pop out. That’s the Grand Canal in the center back there and an ancient, stone carved well in the middle. Our door is at the bottom of the white stairs on the right side. Our beloved Taverna al Remer is on your immediate right when you come through the sotoportego (as in the photo above, which was taken from under the middle arch as shown in the photo to the left).